Is Lisbon the drug capital of Europe? Probably. Day and night, every time I go, in the busiest tourist areas, I am hounded by immigrant drug-pushers who whisper “cocaine”, “hashish” or “ecstasy” into my ear. I once counted 27 different offers in the space of 5 minutes of walking. They have followed me and my wife into restaurants trying the hard sell. They loiter in gangs and aggressively pedal their wares. They even knock on restaurant windows and brazenly indicate to the stash of drugs they have. They are a nuisance. The police seem to turn a blind eye – this is Portugal, after all. They can’t be bothered. It’s a shame, because this leaves an ugly mark on what is surely one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. Certainly one that doesn’t need you to be on drugs to appreciate its magic.
Lisbon feels like a capital city, certainly after living in Porto, yet it feels more compact, more cosy than many other capitals. They call it the city of light – it’s very bright here in the day, brighter somehow than other cities - and there is certainly something alluring about it on an early summer evening too, the golden light reflecting off the Tagus river and bathing the squares, renaissance churches, 18th century buildings, wide avenues and castles in a golden warmth. It’s the sunniest capital city in Europe. Guidebooks will tell you to catch the number 28 tram, as it trundles past pretty much all the noteworthy tourist sites, but it’s packed beyond comfort, and it’s much more interesting to walk. In fact, few cities can beat Lisbon for wandering and getting lost. You don’t need a map here –just wander the wide avenues of Avenida da Liberdade, the cobbled streets of Barrio Alto, along the river, through the winding warren of Alfama, up the hill to the castle of Sao Jorge and to beautiful miradouras ….it really is a city that rewards unplanned adventure.
Where to stay:
Stay right in the centre of the all the fun. Though we’ve stayed in hotels dotted around Avenida Da Liberdade, and further away, the last time we went we stayed in the International Design Hotel – one of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World group.
This hotel is on the south side of the magnificent Rossio square. Rua Augusta, Lisbon’s main pedestrian street, is literally on the doorstep. This is a fine base for exploring.
Where to Go:
Anywhere and everywhere! My favourite walking routes are starting at the top of Parque Eduardo VII, which offers magnificent views of the city.
Head down to the huge roundabout with the statue of Marques De Pombal , then on down the posh shopping street of Avenida Da Liberdade (stopping at the not quite so posh kiosk Hotdog Lovers on the way for a snack to keep you going)
Then you need to find an elevator somewhere to take you up to the Sao Jorge neighbourhood, from where you can walk up to the Moorish Sao Jorge castle. The views from the castle, and the castle itself, are well worth the traipse up the steep hill. There’s an even better view, however, at the Miradour Da Graca – a viewpoint with lots of trees to provide shade. Even higher is the Miradouro Da Nossa Senhora Do Monte, with striking views of the castle and a privileged view over pretty much the entire city. From here I work my way back down, stopping at the incredible 17th century Church of Santa Engracia (now the National Pantheon) for more beautiful views.
From here, you can get lost in the Alfama district, a dilapidated area full of gritty charm, colourful yet worn buildings, and the sound of fado wailing from the ancient walls (there are often fado performances in the evenings – and there’s a Fado museum here too.
Pop into a tiny hole in the wall bar and have a ginginha (cherry liqueur) to perk you up, then continue on to the wonderful 12th century Se Cathedral .
Now you’re back on level ground, and you can wander down the pedestrianized Rua Augusta, which takes you down to the massive Praca do Comercio, the grandest of Lisbon’s squares, and the biggest square in Europe.
A statue of King Jose I on horseback is in the centre, and on three sides are restaurants. The south side is the river Tagus, and from there you can get a ferry to the other side of the river. It is also a good spot to relax and people watch – at sunset you’ll often see African or Brazilian musicians lifting the good mood even higher. You can also see the weird rock art here – painted stones from the river piled gravity-defyingly high. I then enjoy walking along the river to Cais do Sodre, where I might enjoy a drink at the unique Vestigius wine and gin bar
A walk from here can take you up to the Chiado district, an elegant neighbourhood full of good restaurants and shops.
If it’s late, you might want to head to Barrio Alto, a maze of narrow streets and hole in the wall bars, some tasteless and tacky, others with a bit more class, with great live music to be found – just be aware that there are drug dealers on every corner, and they can be quite persistent with their hissed promises of “free sample”. Just be polite and firm in your refusal. Look them in the eye. Smile. If you ignore them completely they can get angry.
An alternative to Barrio Alto would be the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara. This is beautiful day and night, there are often musicians, and there are plenty of benches around the pretty gardens to sit down on and take in the view. A walk back down to Avenida Da Liberdade is steep, but better than the overpriced ‘Elevador Gloria’ funicular that runs down to Restauradores Square. I now head to my favourite Starbucks in the world – at Rossio station for a much needed café latte and a sugary donut.
An interesting stop here in Rossio square is to the right of the elegant National Theatre, in front of the Sao Domingos church. It’s a place where the African community of Lisbon gather, and also the place where a tiny hole in the wall place serves the best ginginha in Lisbon.
A second day in Lisbon might involve hopping on the tram to Belem. Leaving the city the scene of the beautiful architecture of central Lisbon quickly becomes one of soulless concrete housing blocks, with every wall emblazoned with graffiti. The outskirts of Lisbon are poor and rough, and a marked contrast to the display of (albeit old) wealth and elegance in the well-preserved city. Famous football team names like Benfica are in fact characterless urban areas that appear at first glance unwelcoming and unsafe. Arriving in Belem located right on the Tagus river, you notice a change towards the affluent. Belem was once a major maritime port, and is full of architectural and historical sights. No visit to Belem is complete without a visit to the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, or to the impressive 16th century Torre de Belem. A stroll along the waterfront is a must, and I have often enjoyed watching the sailing boats drifting underneath the impressive 25 de Abril Bridge. And of course, no day here is complete without trying a tasty pasteis de nata at the famous Pasteis de Belem . The recipe hasn’t changed since 1837.
A train or tram back can drop you off at Cais Do Sodre, where many a wild night has begun. There are Irish bars, English bars, and a whole host of hip and happening places. It’s still sleazy (it was once the red light district of Lisbon – some would argue it still is), there are possibly more drug dealers than regular punters, but is definitely going through a makeover. A hip ‘gentrification’ of sorts. There’s also the amazing Time Out market nearby for something either local or more exotic – they do great Thai food here.
Lisbon is cultural, classy, and crass – depending on what you want. We love Lisbon, and we’re sure you will too. Any time of year (xmas is our particular favourite – the city makes a real effort with decorations and festivities) is good for Lisbon, the city of light, the city where you don’t need to drugs to feel high.
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