The river Douro in Portugal snakes some 200 miles from Spain towards Porto. The view from our apartment is of the mouth of the Douro, right where it spills out into the Atlantic. It's a beautiful sight, and just a 30 minute walk further up the river past the fishermen who wait patiently for a catch come rain or shine, you see the river flowing in front of Porto, and the UNESCO World Heritage Riberia district. The river provides a stunning foreground to the wonderfully time-trapped city behind it. The most beautiful bridge in Portugal spans the river here, Dom Luis I. The views from the top of the bridge are magnificent, especially as the sun sets and that magic amber light touches the buildings and turns the river to liquid gold. Once a year the Formula One of air racing comes here - the Red Bull air race. Regattas are frequently held on this stretch of river from Porto / Gaia to the Atlantic. Fireworks illuminate the beautiful river during the spectacular Sao Joao festival in June. There is much here that celebrates the river, and celebrations that the river enriches. River beaches emerge during the dry summers along the verdant riverbanks of Gondomar and towards the Douro valley, and the locals flock to them, hosting BBQs, sunbathing, and swimming in the calm shallows. Jet skis, Power boats, sailing boats, fishing boats, luxurious river cruise boats....all comfortably share space on this vast waterway. One of Europe's most spectacular railway journeys hugs the river as it chugs up towards Pinhao in the Alto Douro. The best wine in Europe comes from the oldest demarcated vineyards in the world - those that comb up from the Douro around and produce delicious, fruit-driven red, white and rose wines that are becoming internationally renowned....and of course the Porto wines and tawnys for which Portugal is most famous. The Douro is a remarkably underrated river, just as Portugal is a remarkably underrated travel destination. There is an advantage to this - complete peace, serenity and luxury can be found just an hour's drive up the river from Porto, way before the more touristy towns of Regua or Pinhao. The green slopes gazing over the river offer that complete relaxation break you crave when you live in a city full of tourists like Porto. The place we stayed is one of a handful of luxury resorts that are dotted along the Douro. All offer escape. Because as well as the abundance of activities around it at different sections, the Douro knows the importance of just....chilling.
We were instantly impressed when we arrived at the Douro Royal Valley Hotel and Spa, spectacularly set on a bend of the Douro. The scent of lemongrass in the lift lobby along with the soft meditation music transported us to Thailand. Indeed the hotel, with it's contemporary clean lines, spacious lobby and rooms, huge windows and the architect's ability to channel natural light into the building put the hotel way above the standards one can expect to find in a European city. There was juice and port wine, along with cake, available self-service in the bright lobby, and plenty of comfy sofas and chairs to enjoy the treats on. Our room, 508, enjoyed a privileged view of the river and a balcony from which to enjoy the free Nespresso coffee and tea provided. The room was bright and spacious. For the first time ever in a hotel in Europe we couldn't hear the guests next door or above. We felt like we were back in Asia, where you really get the meaning of what it is like to stay in a four or five star hotel. The Douro Royal Valley is a five star hotel with a five-star setting, and five-star service.
We went up to the 7th floor, where there is a small restaurant which opens up to an expansive lawn, beyond which there is an outdoor infinity pool with plenty of sunloungers to relax on and take in the views.
After a few hours of relaxing here, we needed to relax even more, and so we booked an oil massage each in the spa. This was a lovely experience, the music in the massage room perfectly complementing the scents of the oils used for the soothing massages. This was followed by a refreshing tea in the lounge room. We then made use of the other facilities, the sauna and steam room, and the whirlpool with jacuzzi.
More relaxing by the pool followed. We sat in the pool watching the big tourist cruises on their way to Regua and Pinhao, the jet-skiers, the eagles soaring above. We enjoyed a light salmon wrap for lunch. More relaxing followed.
In the evening we booked a table for two at the hotel restaurant, and enjoyed a delicious three-course dinner with lamb and pork as the main dishes, and a super-indulgent chocolate cake with ice-cream to finish. The final drink was had in the relaxing piano bar. We went back to the room and onto the balcony, where we gazed up at a thousand stars as they twinkled and cast silvery snow-flakes in the dark mirror of the Douro. It was a perfect end to a perfect day.
After a hearty buffet breakfast of high quality we spent more time at the pool and in the spa, before reluctantly driving away. It had been a memorable day and night by a memorable river. We love the Douro and all it gives us - cascading wine terraces, charming quintas, lazy cruises, culture, events, nightlife....and of course the the chance to relax and recharge.
