Long, white sand beaches as far as the eye can see. Kitesurfers and windsurfers skim across the Cavado river, jetskis jump over the waves of the Atlantic, people lie on the sands or hang out in beach shacks or trendy cafes, taking in the sun and sights. The long promenade is a haven for cyclists, roller-bladers, jogger and walkers. The town is pretty, with a number of boutique shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. This is Esposende, a 40 minute drive north of Porto. It enjoys 16 km of Atlantic coastline. A nature lover’s paradise, Esposende offers the attractions of the surf, the sand dunes, pine forests and woodland. It’s a great day trip, but could also reward those who wish to linger longer and explore more, or to party in Ofir, at the world famous Pacha nightclub.
Visiting in the height of summer, we struggled to find a parking space along the road that skirted the coastline, but when we eventually did, and headed across the sand dunes on the wooden board walk, we were impressed with the natural beauty of the place, and the stress of parking melted away. There were the usual sights of colourful umbrellas and windbreakers, and also plenty of people taking advantage of the natural windbreakers provided by the dunes, as they sat in the small sandy ditches. Beyond the low rise developments (which include some very snazzy looking new apartments and villas, were mountains and forests.
We strolled down to the sands of Praia de Cepaes, and found it softer and whiter than in Porto or Vila Nova De Gaia. The sea, however, was no less choppier or colder – the Atlantic as temperamental as always. We walked in the direction of town, along the board walk, passing a beach volleyball game and frisky teenagers trying to swallow each other, and we ended up in front of a large yellow sign that reminded you where you were in case you had forgotten. Behind the beach here, Praia de Esposende, was a fort, Forte de Sao Joao Baptista de Esposende and further south was a kitesurfers paradise – the mouth of the Cavado river, a narrow strip of water with a handy sand bank in the middle. We stopped on the beach and sat and watched them for a while, mesmerized by their jumps, twists and turns.
Esponsende runs a tourist ‘train’ service that plies the promenade between this point, and the town. It’s free. We jumped on it and headed into town. Esposende town is a very typical Portuguese town. Calcada Portuguese (or Portuguese pavement) is laid everywhere – as in many towns in Portugal – a lovely artistic use of cobblestones that brighten up many a dour street. There were some lovely Portuguese shop houses whitewashed or decorated with blue or green tiles, and others with the ubiquitous azulejos. We stopped for a coffee in Largo Dr Fonseca Lima, where you can admire an interesting boat-shaped fountain. From here we strolled to the centre of any Portuguese town, the church, and in front of the church was a small food and drink market selling homemade sangria, crepes, and there was even craft beer. Just before crossing back over to the ‘ocean drive’ of Esposende, the less-catchily-named Avenida Eng. Eduardo Arantes e Oliveira, we stopped to admire the powerful Ao Homen Do Mar (Monument to the Men of the Sa) sculpture, showing four men and woman and a boat’s keel, symbolizing the effort of the people who are sustained by what the sea gives.
On the ocean road we headed north back towards the car. It’s a lovely walk, with some lovely green spaces, the beautiful palms lining the road. We had a cheeky drink at the lovely Dunas Bar before heading back to Porto. Esposende is well worth a visit. There are many more beaches to discover, a lot more to see and do. Check out https://www.visitesposende.com/en We’ll definitely come again, but linger a little longer next time –there’s so much more to explore.
